Travels with S/Y Thetis


Thetis only

2004: Near Samos

This web page contains the logs of a several small sailing trips that I took with S/ Thetis in the East Aegean in Greece, all originating and ending in the Pythagorio Marina of Samos. The logs cover:

  1. a one day excursion with my wife Alice to an anchorage near Kerveli in Samos,
  2. another day excursion to the same anchorage with Alice and our visiting friends Sue and Yiankos Krinos,
  3. a 9 day trip with Alice to Arki, Lipsi and Marathi,
  4. and finally a 2 day trip with my university classmate Luis DeLarrauri and his wife Bebes to Arki and Marathi

The logs are illustrated with photographs and maps they also include some historical and geographical descriptions of the places visited as well as several links to other related web sites.

Route near Samos
Excursions near Samos

June 7-12, 2004

Thetis lay idle in the Pythagorio Marina in Samos.

Sunday June 13, 2004

Alice
Alice

Day excursion with my wife, Alice. Departed from the marina at 1030, sailed E around Cape Gatos ending in a small beach [37° 44.8' N 27° 02' E] S of Mourtia and E of Kerveli arriving at 1400. We spent the day there swimming and having lunch. We left at 1800 and returned to marina at 1945, total distance 22.5 nM.

June 14-25, 2004

Thetis lay idle in the Pythagorio Marina in Samos.

Saturday June 26, 2004

Day excursion with Alice, Yiankos, and Sue Krinos. Departed from marina at 1100 for a cove [37° 44.8' N 27° 02' E]] E of Kerveli arriving at 1315. Lunch and swim. Departed 1725 and arrived back in the marina at 1910, total distance 18.4 nM.

June 27-28, 2004

Thetis lay idle in the Pythagorio Marina in Samos. The marina started charging fees at ½ price. Paid €135 for two months. Asked my brother Nikos to investigate at Vernicos Yachts for a good yearly rate. Filled fuel tank and re-filled jerry can with 21 L of Diesel fuel. Met Ölder Yildiz and his family from the Turkish S/Y Pandora. Gave them ride to super market.

Tuesday June 29, 2004 Day 1

Alice and I departed at 1400 from Pythagorio Marina in Samos for the Glipapas cove in Arki. The wind was 10-24 knots NW and we were able to have a pleasant sail, keeping the mainsail in its 1st reef and the headsail at 40%. We arrived in Glipapas [37° 22.4' N 26° 44.4' E] at 1810 after 24.2 nM. We anchored in 5 m.

The M/S Vassiliki was anchored here but her crew were away.

We lowered the dinghy from the deck to the water. Spent the evening swimming and resting. Had ouzo and ate food that we had brought with us from Kalami.

Wednesday June 30, 2004 Day 2

During the early morning hours I woke up. The anchor had dragged and we were drifting. Started the engine and re-anchored.

In the morning I visited Anastasis Raftopoulos and his wife Mo in M/S Vassiliki. They were leaving for Fourni but we had a cup of coffee together. Later we re-anchored Thetis in 3.8 m. The wind increased. Spent the day swimming and reading.

In the evening Alice made a nice pasta a la puttanesca. Quiet night.

Thursday July 1, 2004 Day 3

We departed Glipapas at 0905 heading for Lipsi. The wind was 10-18 knots from the NW. We motor-sailed with the headsail for 8 nM until we reached the cove by the church [37° 17.8' N 26° 45.3' E] just N of Lipsi Harbor. Time of arrival 1035. We anchored on sand in 5 m.

During the day the wind increased and there were very strong gusts from many directions. Fearing that we may be blown too close to the shore I set the second anchor.

In the evening we took the dinghy to the harbor and we made dinner of ouzo along with the fantastic grilled octopus and other mezedes (tasty snacks). Windy all night.

Friday July 2, 2004 Day 4

We departed Lipsi at 1110 after raising the second anchor. This was not a straight-forward affair because the two ropes had been twisted together by the endless gyrations of Thetis. It took our combined efforts for over an hour. The wind was 25-30 knots NWand we were forced to motor. At least we ran the water-maker to replenish the tanks and re-charge the batteries. After 7.3 nM we arrived in Marathi [37° 22' N 26° 43.6' E] at 1245.

The Navtex issued a gale warning. Here it wass very nice and calm. In the evening we ate a marvelous large grilled fish at Pandelis.

Saturday July 3, 2004 Day 5

Stayed in Marathi. Took a walk around the N side of the island.

Sunday July 4, 2004 Day 6

We departed Marathi at 0945 and motored 1.6 nM back to Glipapas [37° 22.4' N 26° 44.4' E] Arki. Anchored in 3.6 m. More gale warnings from the Navtex. Snorkeled and checked the anchor. Nicely dug-in in the sand.

In the evening we went ashore and ate at the taverna To Steno. The food was good and the proprietors Mrs. Angeliki, and her son Isidoros, were very friendly. He told us that now they have laid a mooring at Steno (the cove just N of Glipapas) available to their customers. Big fuss over Greece winning the European football (soccer) cup.

Monday July 5, 2004 Day 7

N side of Arki
N side of Arki

We were planning to sail back to Samos but since the Navtex continues to issue gale warnings we decided to stay put. We went ashore and walked for about 1½ hours to the N side of the island where there is a ruined WWII Italian guard house with a commanding view of the Samos-Fourni-Ikaria channel. Had a light lunch at the Steno.

WWII Italian Guard house in Arki
WWII Italian Guard house in Arki
NE side of Arki
NE side of Arki

Tuesday July 6, 2004 Day 8

Still in Arki. Waiting out the gale. Nice quiet day. Made dinner on board Thetis.

Wednesday July 7, 2004 Day 9

We departed from Arki at 0750. The wind was 15-25 knots NNE. We opened the mainsail, set it on the 2nd reef, and opened about 35% of the headsail. Sailed almost to Samiopoula, where we had to roll in the headsail and start the engine. After 26 nM we arrived in the Pythagorio Marina at 1330. We met again with the Turkish S/Y Pandora.

July 7-11, 2004

Thetis lay idle in the Pythagorio Marina in Samos.

Monday July 12, 2004 Day 1

Bebes and Luis DeLarrauri During the winter, my Spanish classmate from the Stevens Institute of Technology, Luis DeLarrauri, whom I had not seen for 39 years found me via this web site on the Internet. After exchanging several e-mails he and his wife Bebes came from Madrid, Spain to visit us for a few days in Samos. Since Luis loves sailing we decided to include in their visit an overnight excursion with Thetis.

We departed from the Pythagorio Marina at 1020 heading for Arki. There was no wind so I put up the tent and we motored. I ran the water-maker on the way and filled the tanks. After 25.1 nM we arrived in Glipapas [37° 22.4' N 26° 44.4' E] and we anchored in 3.5 m. We had lunch, we swam and rested.

At 1640 we left Arki for Marathi [37° 22' N 26° 43.6' E]. We motored the 1.6 nM that separates the two anchorages and arrived just in time, as two boats were departing and vacating the last moorings. We caught one of the two moorings. The cove was crowded with 10 other boats in addition to Thetis.

I had called Pandelis ahead and asked Toula to reserve some fish for us. After a walk we went to Pandelis where they were expecting us. We had a great meal with octopus, salad, fried zucchini balls, and three very fresh grilled fish together with their homemade, freshly baked bread and an excellent white wine. All together the end of a very pleasant day.

Bebes and Luis DeLarrauri at Pandelis
Bebes and Luis DeLarrauri at Pandelis
Sunset from Marathi
Sunset from Marathi

Tuesday July 13, 2004 Day 2

We departed Marathi at 0705. The wind was 8-12 knots from the NNW. I raised the mainsail and shook off the reefs. We motor-sailed the 24.7 nM to Pythagorio Marina where we arrived at 1150.

Luis wrote in Thetis’ guest book the following poem:

¡Que es mi bargo mi tesoto!    My big treasure is my boat!
¡Que es mi Dios la Liberta!    My God is my liberty!
Mi ley la fuerza del viento.   My Law the power of the wind.
Mi ûnica patria la mar!        My only fatherland is the Sea!

by José de Espronceda, translated by Luis DeLarrauri.

July 14-19, 2004

Thetis lay idle in the Pythagorio Marina in Samos.