Travels with S/Y Thetis


Thetis only

2013: Samos to Leros

This web page contains the logs of a 11 day solo sailing trip that I took with S/Y Thetis in the East Aegean of Greece. I sailed from Samos Marina to Partheni in Leros, where Thetis was hauled-out and will spend the winter. On the way I stopped at Tiganakia, Marathi, Agriolivadho & Livadhi tou Geranou in Patmos, Katsadia in Lipsi, and finally at the small island of Archangelos.

The logs include either some historical and geographical descriptions of the places visited or links to these descriptions. Also included are links to other related web sites.

Route Samos to Leros
Route Samos to Leros
Route Patmos to Leros
Route from Patmos to Leros

Monday October 7, 2013, Day 1

Alice and I drove to the airport at about 6 AM for Alice to catch the 7 o’clock flight to Athens. She will then take a flight to Heathrow, UK and make a connection to Washington, D.C.

After I left Alice I went to the marina where I left the rented car. Yesterday I had paid for the car and I had also filled its tank and transferred 2 jerry cans of Diesel fuel to the boat's main tank. So now, all I had to do was to prepare for departure. Today I was leaving Samos for the year. My plan was to slowly sail to Leros for Thetis’ winter layover. Earlier this year we had furious N winds and it was rather cold. This morning the cabin temperature was 11° C (51.8°) and the barometer was 1020 mB while the forecasts call for NE winds of force 4-5.

Thetis departed Samos Marina at 0848. The wind outside of the marina was 12-21 knots NNE and I opened about 75% of the headsail and sailed all the way to the southern side of Arki. There were, however, seas of considerable size. After rounding Arki I rolled-in the sail, motored across the Makronisi inlet, and anchored at 1250 in Tigankia [37° 21.6' N 26° 45' E] after 22.7 nM. I dropped the anchor in 7.5 m depth and let out 40 m of scope.

Here it was calm and the temperature had risen to 21°C (69.8°) and kept rising. I stowed extra clean sheets, towels, food, etc. I then opened the spray hood to keep the cabin warm.

I started cooking in wine a roast beef and 2 potatoes in the oven sprinkled with olive oil and garlic. Later I spoke with Alice, still in Athens airport waiting for her next flight. While I did launched the dinghy I did not swim because I was too cold.

I read on my Kindle Tess Gerritsen’s Vanish another of the addicting Rizzoli-Isles mysteries. Then as the sun was setting I had an ouzo but later I ate dinner inside the cabin. It had been nicely warmed by the cooking to a comfortable 23°C (73.4°F). I went to bed early at 9 and slept soundly under 2 blankets and long underwear.

Tuesday October 8, 2013, Day 2

I slept non-stop until 6 AM. The cabin was again cold, 11°C (51.8°). I bundled up and made my coffee. Later I ran the genset to:

  1. Charge the ailing batteries that because of yesterday’s sail were not charged.
  2. Run the refrigerator.
  3. Grind some coffee (grinder needs 220V) for my afternoon filtered coffee.

I also received an e-mail from Alice. She has safely arrived home in Washington, D.C. although her plane left Athens with a delay and she just made her connection in London.

Thetis in Tiganakia
Thetis in Tiganakia

I went ashore and had a nice walk in Makronisi. The rest of the day was quiet. By the noon it was warmer and the temperature in the cabin rose to 24°C (75.2°) while the barometer fell to 1018 mB. The wind was about 7-10 knots and occasionally up to 15. I was able to have a comfortable lunch outside in the cockpit and I even swam and checked the anchor which was well buried under the sand. The forecasts call for winds of force 3-4 NW.

A fishing boat that had spent the night not too far from Thetis came and asked if I was planning to spend tonight also here. I think that they wanted to cast their nets where we were anchored.

In the afternoon a German S/Y with a couple and 2 children anchored nearby for a couple of hours but then they left. Later another German S/Y, the Isis, with an elderly couple anchored just N of Thetis. They spent the night here. In the mean-time I finished Vanish and started reading a Greek book Phil Kafkaloudis’ Ο πόλεμος της Όλγας (Olga’s war) It is based on the true story of a woman from Australia who left her family and came to Greece before WWII and became a member of the resistance It is an interesting story but not very well written.

I had an ouzo in the cockpit and then retired inside the cabin. I ran the wind-generator. For dinner I had 2 slices of the roast with rice. I slept well.

Wednesday October 9, 2013, Day 3

It was warmer this morning, 17°C (62.6°F) in the cabin. I spent the early morning reading and then I went for another pleasant walk in Makronisi. Today it is significantly warmer then the past few days while the wind is only 2-6 knots from the NW. The sea is very calm. The forecasts call for force 3-4 NW for the next few days.

At 1040 I raised the anchor and motored very slowly while towing the dinghy with the outboard and running the water-maker to Marathi. By the time we reached Marathi [37° 22' N 26° 43.6'], 1.2 nM away, the water tanks were full. I had no problem catching on of Pandelis’ moorings. It was calm here and very pleasant. There were 3 Greek charter S/Ys, a Norwegian, and a German. I put up the bimini as it was actually hot.

Alice and I had arranged to talk at 2 PM with Skype. But I had trouble with the connection. I could hear her but she did not hear me. I tried all shorts of adjustments on my iPhone but to no avail. I was afraid that maybe the phone’s microphone had stopped working. So, after a frustrating 1½ hour we gave up and exchanged e-mails. To check on the iPhone’s microphone I made a regular phone call. There was no problem. So, maybe it was just a problem with the GSM connection. I will try Skype again tomorrow.

The sea was warm and I had a long swim. Later, as the sun went down, I had a small ouzo followed my a hot shower. It was time to go ashore.

As usual, I had a wonderful meal at Pandelis: salad, κολοκυθοκεφτέδες (kolokythokeftedes - zucchini balls), and a very tasty and fresh τσιπούρα (tsipoura - Gilthead seabream - Sparus auratus). The meal was followed by a long chat with Pandelis and Katina. Their faithful help, a Bulgarian lady, who has been with them for 10 years was leaving for the winter. Pandelis was to take her to Moschato, Lipsi where a taxi will pick her up and drive her to the harbor to catch the ferry to Piraues. From there she will fly to Sweden and spend the winter with her daughter. Such is the complicated 21st century life. Katina asked me not to leave too early tomorrow morning because she will be baking her wonderful bread and she wanted me to take with me a fresh loaf.

I was back on Thetis by 11. It was cozy in my berth under the blankets.

Thursday October 10, 2013, Day 4

This morning was warmer then yesterday, 18°C (64.4°F) but the barometer was now down to 1016 mB. The weather report calls for the next 2 days for very low winds but variable. I finished reading Ο πόλεμος της Όλγας (Olga’s war). After that I went ashore for a nice hike around the island. After my walk I spent some time with Pandelis. He talked to me about some of the problems that are facing him. I, as a friend, provided a sympathetic ear. I am very fond of him and Katina. They are both very hardworking and sincere people.

Back onboard Thetis I had my usual light lunch. I had just finished when Katina called me. The bread was ready. I went ashore and she handed me a divinely smelling hot loaf of black bread. I thanked and said goodbye to my friends. I hope all goes well with us and that we will meet again in the Spring next year.

I returned to the boat and got ready to leave Marathi. My plan was to go to Patmos and anchor in Agriolvathdi, just in case of a SW wind. I cast off the mooring at 1425. The wind was almost nonexistent at less then 4 knots N. We motored and ran the water-maker with the bimini deployed as it was too cold for the tent. Despite this, today was actually the warmest day, so far of this cruise, the thermometer reaching 26°C (78.8°F) inside the cabin.

After 9.5 mM we arrived in Agriolvathdo, Patmos [37° 20.5' N 26° 33.5' E] at 1625. I dropped the anchor in 6.5 m depth with 35 m of chain and Thetis settled at 5 m depth. I lowered the dinghy and snorkeled to check the anchor. It was nicely set in the sand.

My problem was with the iPhone. I had not been able to be heard during a Skype call. As we had arranged I called Alice and had the same problem as yesterday. I made Google search and found that after a Skype upgrade the phone’s microphone could be disabled for the Skype app. In fact, this was my case. After restoring the setting I tried calling Alice again but she had already left. I was very frustrated because I could not check if the app worked. I had to think of some other test.

I had an ouzo but after the sunset, at 6:15, the cockpit was attacked by mosquitoes and I had to retreat inside the cabin. I started reading on the Kindle Dudley Pope’s Ramage & the Dido the last of the Ramage nautical novels. The night was dead calm. Thetis swinging lazily and occasionally pitching with the very weak westerly breeze. Everything was very quiet. There was only one other S/Y here, a chartered boat with the Greek flag.

For dinner I warmed some lentils that Alice had made in Kalami. I then made a fresh tomato omelet with tomatoes from Kalami and eggs from Yiorgos’ free ranging chickens. It was a simple but absolutely delicious meal along with the last ⅓ of a Kalami vintage 2012 wine. It was a lovely night to be alone and afloat.

PatmosSunset

Friday October 11, 2013, Day 5

As expected it was a very quiet night and the boat hardly rocked but she was swinging sometimes N and sometimes S on her hanging chain. There was almost no wind.

In the morning, after my coffee, I took the dinghy, 20 minutes, to the cove W of Meloi called Ayia Fotini. From there I walked for 30 minutes to Skala. In Skala I bought some provisions, had a fresh orange juice and then walked back to the dinghy. Thetis had not moved since I left her

I had lunch and a rest in the cockpit. Then I finally did speak with Alice on Skype. Just enabling the microphone in the Skype app was not enough. I had to turn off the phone, after the enable, and then turn it on again. At any rate, the vexing problem was solved.

I had a nice swim. Today is again the warmest day of this cruise, with temperature reaching 28°C (82.4°C) in the cabin while the water temperature was 26.3°C (79.3°).

Taking advantage of the pleasant day I read under the bimini. I also had an ouzo around 6 but close to 7 PM it now gets dark.

I ran the genset to charge the batteries and operate the refrigerator while I pealed 2 potatoes and fried them. I then ate them with 2 slices of the never-ending roast.

Saturday October 12, 2013, Day 6

The dawn and the sunrise were breathtaking while the sea was like a mirror. But, it was rather humid and the cockpit was drenched. The forecasts call for increasing N winds starting this evening and reaching force 7 by tomorrow afternoon. I am thinking of relocating today to Livathi tou Geranou and then tomorrow to Katsadia in Lipsi. The good news is that even the long term forecasts do not predict the dreaded S winds.

I had an e-mail from my daughter Cynthia that today (actually tomorrow in Brisbane where she is) would be a good time to have a Skype session. I turned on the iPhone and had a nice video chat. Her trip back home was good but on Friday she will be traveling to the US for a conference.

I raised the anchor at 1016 and motored slowly the 1.8 M towing the dinghy, charging the batteries, and running the refrigerator. It was very calm. I noticed that the Balmar charge regulator was running the wrong program and not the one for deep discharge flooded batteries. We arrived in Livathi tou Geranou [37°20.7' N 26° 35.3'] at 1040. We anchored in 5 m depth with 25 m chain. The light breeze here was from the S and not from the anticipated NW. Thetis settled in 4.5 m depth and she was the only boat here. The local taverna appeared closed but there were people picking things up. Closing for the winter I suppose.

I spend some time, after consulting its manual, re-programing the voltage regulator. It was fairly warm and there was strong sunshine. I was too lazy to put up the tent so I opened the bimini instead.

In the afternoon the wind arrived, as expected from the N - NW. I snorkeled and checked the anchor. While it was well set now with the change of wind it was pointing in the wrong direction. Back on the boat I started the engine and reversed at increasingly higher RPM. I then snorkeled again. Now the Rocna anchor was buried in the sand and was in the right direction although it had hardly moved. But just in case I let out 10 more meters of chain. After that the boat settled in 6.5 m depth.

I had an e-mail from my younger daughter Corinna proposing a Skype chat at 8 AM her time, 5 PM here. I turned on the Skype but she was not on-line and I assumed she meant tomorrow and not today. Later though she sent me another e-mail saying that she was waiting for me. I did call but she was getting ready to leave the house. We agreed to try again tomorrow at my 5 PM. Such are the vagrancies of electronic communications over time zones.

I finished Ramage & the Dido. It is a good story. Too bad that this entertaining series is over. I started reading on the Kindle William C. Hammond’s For Love of Country another 18th century naval story with an American hero. I had read the the first novel of this series A Matter of Honor some time ago and I liked it. In the mean-time the wind had increased to 10-16 knots WNW.

For dinner I made a sauce from 2 fresh tomatoes and boiled some tagliatelle to go with it. It was very good with plenty of Parmezan cheese and Kalami 2012 wine. The problem now with the increase darkness, dusk by 18:45 and dawn after 07:00, I have to run the electric lights for longer periods which drains the aging batteries.

Sunday October 13, 2013, Day 7

When I woke up around 6 o’clock it was still dark outside. The wind had picked up to 12-18 knots from the N. I looked up the forecasts on the iPhone. They predicted strong N winds reaching force 7 during this evening and tomorrow morning. The barometer, in the mean-time, had fallen to 1014 from yesterday’s morning of 1018 mB.

I got ready to depart for Lipsi. I raised the dinghy and at 0840 pulled up the anchor. The wind outside the cove was 12-20 knots NNW and there was a lot of uncomfortable chop. I opened 75% of the headsail and sailed all the way to Katsadia, Lipsi [37° 16.8' N 26° 46.3' E], 10.6 nM away. All the moorings were occupied except one which I caught, instead of anchoring. The time was 1030. I lowered the dinghy and connected a stronger line to the mooring with a large cleat, to prevent any abrasion.

It was lovely and calm here with just a 8-12 knot breeze. There was a familiar S/Y in the adjacent Papandria cove: the German Carpe Diem with Berno and Hilde Matz whom I had met at Pandeli’s in Martathi few days ago. After a while I visited them with the dinghy. They will be leaving later in the afternoon for Lipsi harbor and then head N to Çesme where they winter their boat.

I swam and read enjoying the sunshine, although I did open the bimini for some shade while eating and reading. In the afternoon the expected wind did come with gusts from the NW to NE of over 25 knots.

I had a very nice Skype session with Corinna and grandson Rohan in Jackson, WI. He is very lively and quick. I walked with the iPhone and gave him a tour of “Papous boat” which he enjoyed. He liked the “tiny bathroom” and the dinghy. I promised him that he could ride it next year. I am not really sure what “next year” means to to him but he was pleased.

Later I went ashore and walked for about 30 minutes to the town. The grocery store was closed but Nikis' & Loula's was open and busy. I had some ouzo with their outrageously good grilled octopus and fried calamari. I then walked back to Katsadia under the moon light. It was a very windy and gusty night but it was not cold.

Monday October 14, 2013, Day 8

I woke up around 7, later then my usual time. The cabin temperature was 20°C (68°F), the barometer 1013 mB, and the relative humidity 69%. The wind was less gusty then last night. I looked up the forecasts: predictions are force 5 N for this afternoon and 3-4 by tomorrow morning. However the forecasts also indicated that there may be light southerlies tomorrow afternoon increasing by Thursday and possibly bringing thunder storms.

My plan still stands: stay here today and go to Archangelos tomorrow. After that I am not sure since Archangelos is exposed to the S. Of course, the bay in nearby Partheni is very secure. I will also need to decide by tomorrow whether to haul-out Thetis on Friday or on Thursday. We shall see! Most of the other S/Y left.

I walked to the town hoping to find some tubes of Rio Mare tuna spread. These used to be in most stores but last year they disappeared from the shelves. The only store that had them was the small grocery store next to Lipsi harbor. I had bought a supply of them in the Spring but now they were gone; the store had none. I just bought some bananas, then had a fresh orange juice at the café in the small town square and then walked back to Katsadia.

The sun was strong and I put up the tent for the first time since leaving Samos. It was nice and warm in the cockpit. Later in the afternoon I spoke with Alice on Skype. The wind by then was less than in the morning, 8-15 knots still from the NNW. Three S/Ys arrived and caught the free moorings with considerable difficulty and lots of yelling.

The local taverna here, which I though that had closed for the year, now appeared to be open. I had an ouzo and then went ashore to the taverna. I think it is a good idea to know and patronize the local establishments, at any rate I did feel a moral obligation to so since I have used their mooring. The food was reasonable. They told me that tonight was their last day for the season. They will open again in May.

I finished reading For Love of Country. It is rather engaging and for me it illuminates aspects of US history that I am not too familiar with.

Tuesday October 15, 2013, Day 9

It would had been a good night except for the infernal wind-generator noise. I got up and turned it off, via its switch. It stopped alright but there was still a rumbling noise. This noise is a “new feature” which needs further exploration.

After I got up I prepared for departure. The forecasts were not too different from yesterday’s: northerlies force 2-3 for today on N side of Leros then becoming southerlies and increasing in strength by tomorrow afternoon. Then on Thursday getting even stronger, force 5-6, and possibly bringing a thunder storm.

By 0925 I had cast off the mooring and Thetis motored, running the water-maker, towards Archangelos the wind being too weak to sail. We arrived in Archangelos [37° 11.9' N 26° 46.3' E] after 5.5 nM at 1035. Just in case of S winds I dropped the anchor deeper then I usually do here in 7 m depth and let out 45 m of chain. I raised the dinghy from its davits as high as it was possible. This was high enough to allow me to lower the swimming ladder without actually launching the dinghy. I squeezed under the dinghy into the water and snorkeled to the anchor. It was well set in the sand.

I called Agmar Marine and arranged to haul-out Thetis on Thursday rather then on Friday. There were no other boats here but later several S/Ys did come: 3 British, a German, 2 Greek charter boats, and finally a Spanish. It got rather crowded for this time of the year. It was very calm and the sun was strong. I started reading Bernard Cornwell’s Sharpe's Triumph: Richard Sharpe and the Battle of Assaye, September 1803.

I did some troubleshooting on the wind-generator. Its “on-off” switch is OK. I cleaned all its contacts and by-passing the switch I shorted the + and the - leads from the wind-generator. Just as it does with the switch it stops it from generating but it still turns, albeit slower, and makes the annoying rumbling noise. I reconnected the switch and tied the generator’s blades, thusly preventing it from turning at all and making any noise.

I enjoyed the sunshine and in the afternoon I had a nice long swim, most likely my last for this year. During the lovely sunset I had my ouzo. By that time most of the S/Ys had left. But the British S/Y Odin arrived and anchored near Thetis. This was followed by a charter S/Y with a nervous German couple, and then by another with 2 families who started grilling. The crew from the Spanish S/Y went ashore and ate at the little taverna that opened this year. Then a 42' catamaran with a US - Delaware flag, i.e. a Turkish boat, arrived. She was expertly handled by a young skipper. After she anchored a family appeared with 2 very attractive young girls. They all swam briefly and then disappeared inside the cabin while the skipper raised the anchor and she headed east.

It was a quiet night. For dinner I boiled some tagliatelle and served them with the last of the roast beef. I was trying to clear the larder.

Wednesday October 16, 2013, Day 10

Last night was very calm and quiet with a light 2-6 knot breeze from the SW - SE. The forecasts are now calling for force 4-5 SE winds this morning and afternoon increasing by evening to force 6 and rain for tonight and tomorrow morning. But now there is no mention of a thunder storm for Leros.

My plan for today is to stay here as late as possible and then to move to Partheni. If an Agmar Marine mooring is available to tie to it, if not to anchor either in front of the yard or in the inner cove. The cabin temperature at 7 AM was 21° C (69.8° F) while the barometer was down to 1009 mB. Is there an an predictable storm coming this way?

Taking advantage of the calm I lowered, removed, and tied into a bundle the genoa and then did the same for the mainsail. This took me over 1½ hour but now I do not have to remove the sails with a strong wind nor do it while Thetis is standing on the hard.

During the morning the wind, as expected, kept increasing to 20 knots S - SW while the barometer fell another 2 mB now to 1007. Thetis or rather Odin came very close to each other. Odin pulled a few meters of their chain while I let out few of mine. Now the two boats were at a safe distance from each other.

I had lunch and then decided to go to Partheni but Odin was right over my anchor. The gentleman from Odin told me that they were planning to spend the night here despite the new force 6-7 forecast. He maneuvered his boat to the W and I was able to raise my anchor. The time was 1305. We slowly motored the 1.8 nM to Partheni. All 4 Agmar Marine’s moorings were free and I caught one of them [37° 11' N.3 E 26° 48.02 E]. The time was 1335. Unfortunately the double line that I put through the eye at the top of the mooring buoy wrapped also around the buoy and got tangled. So I had to launch the dinghy after all before untangling it and securing Thetis with a stronger line and a metal cleat to avoid any abrasion. This was the last passage of the year for Thetis and me.

Later I drove the dinghy around Partheni cove for a last ride. There are so many fish farms, and less and less room for anchoring in this prime anchorage, the only one in Leros protected from both N and S winds. I had an ouzo in the cockpit although the sun was behind the clouds. I then made a potato omelet with the last of Kalami potatoes.

It was a windy night. Another S/Y, a catamaran, came and tied on the next mooring.

Thursday October 17, 2013, Day 11

I was woken up at 3:30 by the rain and the howling wind now gusting to 30 knots. I checked that all was alright with the boat and went back to an uneasy sleep. I got up just before 6. It was pitch black. I hope that I can remove the cleat from the mooring without going over with the dinghy. I will have to wait until there is daylight. If I can do so then I will raise the dinghy on the davits. The barometer is now down to 996 mB, having fallen more then 10 mB in less then 24 hours.

When there was enough light to see but before 8:00 when Agmar Marine starts their operations I tried from the deck to remove the cleat from the mooring but I could not do so, I had to use the dinghy. I hanged the fenders and rigged stern and bow lines in preparation for the haul-out. I then went with the dinghy to the mooring buoy and removed the line with the cleat and then doubled it around the buoy’s ring. So now Thetis was secured to the mooring with 2 doubled lines (one from yesterday). The wind was fairly strong, over 20 knots still from the S and it was drizzling. I then lifted the dinghy on the davits as the travel-lift made its way slowly to the “pool.” Nikolas, the travel-lift attendant, waved to me to come.

I turned on the engine, cast off the lines from the mooring, and slowly motored to the “pool”. Despite the wind Thetis entered the “pool” perfectly without coming close to the concrete. Nikolas and Spyros the travel-lift operator caught the stern and bow lines and in no time Thetis was secured. I turned off the engine but I forgot to note the engine hours. Soon the boat was lifted from the water. It was 0845.

While the travel-lift slowly carried Thetis to her winter resting place, I walked to the office where I was greeted by Angelos, the yard owner, and Irene, the competent and pleasant secretary.

No more worried about weather and anchors I occupied myself for the day with several tasks preparing the boat for her lay-over. I also took possession of a rental car. It rained on and off all day and it was cold.

In the early evening when all the personnel had left the yard. I had a long chat with Angelos about the Greek economy and its effects on the yard.

For dinner I went to the nearby Archontiko taverna where I had some tasty lamp chops. It was a cold night but now that the boat had shore power I operated the small electric space heater and it was cozy inside the cabin. I slept well.

Friday October 18, 2013

First thing in the morning I turned on my MacBook and updated the 2013-14 Task List for Thetis. After I printed the list I discussed it with Antonis, the person in charge of customer relations.

I then drove to Lakki for my obligatory visit to the Limenarchio (Greek Coast Guard) to register Thetis’ arrival and to get the lifting permit. They were very busy because they had just arrested a group of illegal immigrants. I left the boat papers with the pleasant young lady officer and went to the marina café for a fresh orange juice. When I returned to the Limenarchio she, to my pleasant surprise, had completed the forms. Now Thetis is officially in Leros and out of the water.

Back at the yard I lowered the dinghy from the davits to the ground and filled it with fresh water and soaked the docking lines. I also lowered the anchor and chain and washed them with fresh water. I did many more small tasks. I had a long chat with Mastro Michalis, the technical manager. All the people here appear pleased and upbeat with many of their customers coming back after last year’s blunders.

For dinner I met my friends Anastasis and Moo Raftopoulos and we had, as usual, a very good meal at the Petrino restaurant in Lakki.

Saturday October 19, 2013

In the morning I did more paperwork with the computer. Then, when there was some daylight, I took the lines that had soaked overnight inside the dinghy and placed them on the deck to dry. I topped the fuel tank from the jerry cans with Diesel fuel. Now there were 3 empty cans. These I washed. I then slowly raised, 10 m at a time, the anchor chain while washing it and letting to dry. I emptied the dinghy from the fresh water, re-filled it, and put in it the lines from the right sail locker to soak.

I went to lunch with Angelos in Pandeli at the Patimenos taverna. We had some nice fish.

Back to work in the yard I washed the empty jerry cans. There was a lovely sunshine. In the evening I did not have my customary ouzo because I was so satiated from lunch. Later I made a tomato omelet using the last tomatoes and eggs.

Sunday October 20, 2013

The damaged S/Y San Paulo Apostolo III
The damaged S/Y San Paulo Apostolo III

I did a lot of work today. I emptied the left sail locker and washed it. After it dried I put in it all the already dried docking lines. I transferred the fuel from the remaining jerry can to a clean one and then I washed it. I put the rest of the lines that I had removed from the right sail locker on the deck to dry. Then I emptied the right sail locker and washed it. I removed several rust stains from the deck and washed 3 of the fender covers. I then removed and washed the bimini. I washed the tent, the mainsail cover, and the spray hood. I hanged all of these to dry.

While taking a brake and strolling around the yard I saw a very sad sight: the severely damaged S/Y San Paulo Apostolo III.

I spoke with Alice and Cynthia who was in Washington, DC. By 4:30 in the afternoon I was very tired. But there was more work to do. I folded the now almost dried tent but left on the deck to dry some more tomorrow in the sunshine.

I had a shower and then drove to Ayia Marina and met Panayiotis, the electrician, and his wife Mary at the Mylos taverna where I had invited them. We had a wonderful time, and as usual a very good meal. By the time I returned to Thetis it was almost midnight.

Monday October 21, 2013

Despite going to bed late I was up by 6:30. It was still quite dark outside. I worked for a while with the computer and organized what I had to do. I cleaned the battery and other electric contacts and coated them with vaseline spray. As soon as there was light outside I washed the remaining 3 fender covers and hanged them to dry. I then washed and cleaned the 6 fenders. It seems that 2 of them are dmaged and leak air. I ordered from the chandlery replacements. While the fenders were drying I stowed the by now dry lines in the right sail locker. I stowed the tent, the bimini, spray hood, and the mainsail cover.

After these tasks I thoroughly washed the dinghy and let it dry. I washed the 2nd anchor and its chain, and the horseshoe life saver. I then covered the dry dinghy and raised it on the davits. I stowed the fenders and washed the boat’s deck.

Later in the afternoon my friends Dietrich and Monica from the catamaran Fromo came for a sundowner. I served them lemoncelo that I had made in Kalami.

We had arranged with Anastasis to meet him and Moo for dinner at the Steki of Dimitris in Alindas. But as I was getting in the car Anastasis called. The taverna was closed. We went instead to the Pyrofani in Pandeli.

Tuesday October 22, 2013

Today I fly to Athens and tomorrow to Washington, D.C. I got up as usual and started the last day tasks. These are tasks that cannot be done while I am living in Thetis such as picking the bed, laundry, and eventually shutting thing down. Unlike other years today’s flight is at noon and not earlier in the morning, This gives me time to do these tasks in a less frantic manner.

I took the laundry to the office where Irene assured me that after the laundry service returns it they will put it back in the boat.

All went smoothly and after saying goodbye to everyone I drove the rented car to the airport, returned the car, and checked-in. I hope to see Thetis again in the Spring.

This ends the adventure for 2013.

2013 Vital Statistics
Total Distance 843 nM
Time at Sea 54 days
Total Underway 163 hr
Total Solo Time 93 hr
Total Engine Time 154 hr
Total Fuel Consumed 266 L
Total Water Consumed 1428 L